Washi and Matsuri
  
(Japanese handmade paper and Festival)
the tradition and history in Mino City



by Prof. Hajime John Ishida      

This is a New Year's greeting card from Sightseeing Association of Mino City (photo 1), located in Gifu Prefecture: the central part in Honshu Island in Japan. One and half hour's journey from Nagoya takes you to this old and quiet city, which will give a sense of relief from the din and bustle in Japanese megalopolis.



photo 1 (click for bigger)

photo 3

photo 2 (© Mino City)

The postcard shows the paper lantern contest which is held in the crisp autumn chill every year: old streets illumined by dim and mellow light; brightness and darkness tinged with mysteriousness; girls smiling in quiet kimono and gaudy obi (photo 2).
Last year the number of contestants exceeded seven hundred fifty, including several foreign artists invited by Mino City, which has offered "Artists in Residence Programme" these eight years. Nearly ninety thousand people visited Mino (photo 3).


In winter a thick carpet of snow is spread over the town streets. Some years ago they were buried in snow so deep as to shovel away as hard as they can (photo 4), when this nine-metre high wooden lighthouse became snow-capped, which was built some hundred years ago, one of the oldest in Japan (photo 5).
    
    photo 4

photo 5


photo 6

Mino is so famous for her long history of handmade paper, made from the fibres of kouzo, a paper mulberry, through several processes; one of which is called kanzarashi, to bleach fibres in cold river (photo 6). Such a hard work in snowy season with fingers numbed and feet chilled.
The history of washi, Japanese paper, goes back to the sixth century. According to Nihonshoki, the Chronicles of Japan, the art of paper-making was introduced by a Korean priest in the reign of Empress Suiko. In the Nara Era (710 - 793), shakyou, transcribing Buddhistic sutra, was so widespread that the demand for paper rapidly increased.


The eighth century official document records the name of Mino among the fourteen feudal states which gave an annual tribute of paper to the Imperial court. That is why Mino has the history of paper production over one thousand three hundred years.
In the Edo Era (1603 – 1867), the city flourished as one of the centres of paper industry, when not only the above-mentioned wooden lighthouse but also other eighteenth century architecture were constructed, many of which are still extant.
As the demand for paper grew bigger and bigger like a snowball, first the machinery entered paper industry, then after the second world war the petrochemical products were introduced to substitute for paper. At last machine-made paper superseded handmade one.
In Mino the wholesalers dominated paper industry, which was supported by family manufacturing. Therefore it was very difficult to mechanize production system. Thus many manufacturers could not help but change or give up their business: in 1950s one thousand two hundred houses produced paper; in 1960 five hundred houses; in 1970 one hundred houses; in 1980 forty houses and at present about thirty houses.
The municipal authority has taken various measures to preserve and promote Mino paper, one of which is the above-mentioned grant for foreign artists. The Japanese government has also designated the traditional product as Important Cultural Heritage.

The photo has a distant view of Mino Bridge built in the beginning of twentieth century: the oldest suspension bridge in Japan (photo 7). According to an article*, this bridge has some similarities with New Port Bridge over River Merrimack, Massachusetts, designed by James Finley (1756 - 1828), the inventor of modern suspension bridge.
Regrettably to say, but it is still unknown who designed Mino Bridge. Yet we have a few names of Japanese designers who had studied bridge design in America and got the latest information at that time.

   
photo 7

One of them belonged to Yokogawa Bridge Corporation, so famous for its high technological level that it could be assumed that Gifu Prefecture requested to design and construct the bridge, which relates to us the history of modern Japan as well as of Mino City.


Now Mino enjoys the most cheerful season of the year, full of festivities and hospitalities. The poster tells sakoura matsuri, cherry blossom festival, lasts until the fifth of May, the Children's Day.




photo 8

On Holy Saturday, the tenth of April, Japanese girls in happi coat (photo 8) are seen to carry hana mikoshi, a portable shrine adorned with cherry blossom petals of Mino paper, when they have a standing comedy contest, niwaka, too.



photo 9

On Easter Sunday, the eleventh, they observe hinkoko matsuri, a festival of giant puppets made of paper, which consists of a parade along streets and a dramatic performance by puppets in a shinto shrine on hill; with the spectators looking up to them at the foot as they do in the photo (photo 9).
The drama is based upon the ancient shinto mythology: Prince Susanoo slew a huge serpent with eight heads and tails to deliver Princess Kushinada from confinement. Concerning shinto, the oldest religion, or religious consciousness, in Japan, you could find some pieces of information in my short article published in this website.

While travelling in old towns and villages in Japan, I have often heard a similar utterance: we don't have anything here. But they still have something important probably latent in beliefs, customs and folklores, that is, traditions, as the communal observance in Mino proves. It seems that the Japanese modern times had a tendency to think little of them and so people have now forgotten they still have it.

Lecfadio Hearn (1850 - 1904), the nineteenth century writer from Lefkada, published Kwaidan, Japanese Ghost Stories, in April 1904, exactly one hundred years ago; among which a story titled as yukionna, a snow fairy, might tell us something we have forgotten or lost.

One winter night. Two woodcutters, caught in a snowstorm, took a shelter in a hut. Minokichi, the younger, was roused from sleep to find a very beautiful girl with fair complexion bend over Mosaku, the older. He had been frozen to death. She violently pushed Minokichi down, saying she would do the same thing to him.
‘But I cannot do this. You are so young. Too cruel.’
She sighed with pity on the face.
'Listen. I will not kill you, but if you should tell somebody . . . you shall be like him.'
She disappeared into the icy darkness.

Next winter it had begun to snow, when Minokichi saw a beautiful girl fixing waraji, straw sandals, by the roadside. Her name is Oyuki, which means snow. He gave a night’s lodging on her request. Minokichi was living with his mother. Both of them came to like her very much. Before long she got married to him and borne ten children.

Another winter night years later. Oyuki was busy with needlework by the fireside, while her husband gave admiring glances to his wife as young and beautiful as ever, drinking sake: Japanese wine made from rice.
‘It was at the age of eighteen, when I saw a very beautiful and fair girl. Strange to say, she looked like you. A terrible night. I have never told anybody until now.’

On hearing this, Oyuki got a start.
'I don’t like scary stories.'
'We were caught in a snowstorm . . . '
When he began to relate, she couldn’t keep back tears.
Minokichi talking; Oyuki weeping.
'It's an old story. Don't be scared. But I still wonder if she was a dream or . . . a snow fairy.'
She hurled a needle box down to the earthen floor.
'Oyuki!'
'That was me. I told you even a single word if you should . . . ,' said Oyuki filled with anger and sorrow, 'I must kill you . . . but I cannot. Without these children I would . . .'
A door suddenly opened. She had vanished without trace.
There was a snowstorm outside like that night.

Everyone of us knows too well that a snow fairy doesn't exist or is nothing but a personification of the winter chill or the elementary Nature; but we still have the frosty and snowy winter causing chapped hands or chilblains, which I have seen the ordinary people suffering from both in Greece and in Japan. It is not only for Minokichi but also for us, who cannot believe in something mysterious or supernatural, that Oyuki couldn't keep back tears.

Old houses in Mino usually have a noren, shop curtain, which, together with the children running along a sunlit street, waits for you to come to this quiet Japanese city someday.

Acknowledgements are for my acquaintances in Mino: Mr. T. Funato, Mr. H. Ichihara, Mr. S. Murai, Mr. S. Murase, Ms. Y. Takano, Mr. O. Tauchi, Mr. H. Terashima, Mr. K. Umemura, and especially for Mr. R. Kosaka, president of Sightseeing Association of Mino City; and also for Mr. H. Haba, a paper lantern artist.


*http://www.jsce-int.org/Publication/CivilEng/2002/4-2/pdf

Links:
- Mino City
- Sightseeing Association of Mino City

 
April 2004

Greece-Japan.com